Patagonia - A Chile Hiking Trip
Trekking Through Patagonia: A Month at the Edge of the World
There’s something about the Patagonia region that feels like the edge of the world, raw, remote, and breathtakingly beautiful. In November 2024, I embarked on a Chile hiking trip that took me through some of the country’s most iconic landscapes, from temperate rainforests and icy mountain passes to penguin colonies and glacier-fed lagoons. Whether you're planning a Torres del Paine trek or exploring Chile’s major tourist attractions, this journey offers a glimpse into the wild heart of South America.
Starting North: Pumalín Park’s Rainforest Magic
Temperate Rainforests in Pumalín Park
Before heading deep into southern Patagonia, I began in Pumalín Park, which is a lush temperate rainforest teeming with waterfalls and ancient towering Alerce trees, some of which are believed to be 5000 years old. It is a lesser-known gem on the Chile tourist map, offering a truly remote and wild adventure and situated to the northern part of Patagonia. The area is sparsely populated and once the road ends, it is down to ferry hopping across the fiords from one road to another. Some areas are only accessible by using a 4-wheel drive, but I managed to get most of the way south as far as the small town of Chaiten in a small Hyundai 10i type vehicle, so nothing special is really needed. Just be a bit careful on the unpaved parts of the Carretera Austral, which is the name given to Chile's Route 7. This highway runs south for about 1,240 kilometres (770 miles) from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins, passing through this area of Patagonia.
These forests are truly isolated and impressive. The area is dotted with live volcanoes. I stayed in the small town of Chaitén near its still smouldering volcano. This is truly a frontier town, which has only recently been reinhabited after it was evacuated and destroyed in 2008 when the Chaitén volcano erupted. The cabañas (cabins) here a great and cheap to stay at after a few nights camping in the wet wilderness. Chaitén is a great place to base yourself to explore these forests and its volcanoes.
Torres del Paine Circuit: The Heart of the Trek
To get further south, the only way is really either a 2-hour flight to Puerto Natales, a 4-day ferry, or a 33-hour detour on bus or car through Argentina. I flew and I linked up with my friend Dave to begin the legendary Torres del Paine circuit. Our plan: an 8-day Torres del Paine O Circuit self-guided trek around the park’s jagged peaks and cinematic vistas. Known for its dramatic scenery and challenging terrain, this route is a dream for photographers, and a test for trekkers. The staging point for this trek is Puerto Natales, which is a very laid-back town with plenty of food drink and places to get supplies.
An eight minute video of a trekking trip to Patagonia in November 2024
The trek involved pre booking campsites. This needs to be done well in advance, because the number of people allowed into that part of the park is limited by the authorities and licences are needed. The simplest way to do this is use https://www.bookingpatagonia.travel/ to book your trip. Some this can be quite expensive for accommodation and food, so just look carefully and if you navigate it properly you will see that the campsites are quite cheap. It is just that often it is difficult to coordinate all of the campsites without getting sucked into paying for extras. These sites are run by different companies. The cheaper option was CONAF camp sites (Park Authority). They were closed when we travelled, but it looked like they were renovating their sites, so if you camp I would check them out first.
Our route was unsupported, which meant carrying everything: tents, sleeping bags, food, and camera gear. The weather was a mixed bag, cold nights dipping below freezing, snow-dusted peaks, and surprisingly mild days reaching up to 15°C. The late sunsets and early sunrises made sleep elusive, especially when chasing golden-hour light for photographs.
View from day 5 of the O Trek in Torres Del Paine
It was a great adventure and we loved it. A real challenge and away for the over-congested other routes in the same park area. The 8 days seems to ensure you get a quieter and more authentic experience, compared to the areas where other tourists jump in for just a day or two.
Climbing, the Cold, and the Views
Looking into the Glacier.
One of the toughest stretches was a long, icy ascent without crampons. The wind had died down after a snow blizzard on the upper pass the day before, but the trail was covered in snow and ice and slow-going. We pushed on, surrounded by towering peaks and silence, save for the crunch of snow underfoot. At one point, I paused to film Dave climbing through a snow pass, one of those moments that captures both the struggle and the adventure of high-altitude trekking. This was a long, painful day, but the reward at the top of the pass was an unbelievable view that was truly awe-inspiring in scale and beauty.
The Grey Glacier: Nature’s Cathedral
Crossing this pass brought us to the Grey Glacier, a sprawling, jagged mass of ice that seemed to stretch into forever. From the ridge, we could hear the thunderous cracks as chunks calved into the lagoon below. The scale was humbling. As we descended, the air warmed and the views opened up into a vast, glacial valley bathed in soft light.
Valle del Francés: A Hidden Gem
Of all the places we passed, the Valle del Francés stood out. A side trail off the main circuit, it offered some of the most photogenic and tranquil views of the entire trek, jagged peaks, hanging glaciers, with lush forests and rushing mountain rivers in the bottom of the valley.
The Towers at 5am
Chasing the Light: Our Sunrise Mission
Photographing in Patagonia at that time of the year, means early mornings—very early. Most trekkers missed the best light because sunrise hits around 5 a.m. I’d often be up in the dark, hiking to a vantage point while others slept. One morning, we climbed to Camp Chileno, aiming to catch the towers at dawn. The forecast was grim, but we went anyway. Even when the light didn’t cooperate, the camaraderie of fellow hikers made it worthwhile. The quite calm as we all waited for the sun to enter the dome as if it were a theatre show. We never got the true red glow due to cloud cover, but as you can see from the images...who cares, it was still brilliant.
Then the last part of that day was the slog back to civilisation and our bus back to the town of Punta Arena.
A Surprise Encounter: The King Penguins
We then headed further south, where we sought out the colony of King Penguins. Their regal posture and vivid colouring were a real treat. I really felt now that I was close to the Antarctic. Proof of Patagonia’s incredible ecological diversity.
The Final Stretch: South to the Sea
Dave’s legs had taken a pounding and so after the main trek, I left Dave to get some R& R while I continued solo to the southernmost part of mainland Chile. The coast here is wild and remote, with whales breaching offshore and skies painted in pastel hues. I camped near a beach past Punta Arenas, photographing lenticular clouds as they hovered above the mountains like UFOs. One evening, I captured three of my favourite images, each taken within six hours from the same spot, as the light transformed the landscape. (see video)
Final Thoughts
Patagonia’s most southern mainland trek, view from the shore.
Whether you're planning a Chile travel itinerary or dreaming of a Torres del Paine trek, this region offers something truly special. From the rugged Torres del Paine circuit to the peaceful refugios, cabanas and ecocamps, Patagonia rewards those willing to venture off the beaten path. It’s a place of extremes, weather, terrain, and emotion. It demands effort, but gives back awe-inspiring moments that stay with you long after you’ve left. Be prepared for wind and rain in the extreme.
We then travelled back on the Navimag ship, a converted container ship which takes a few passengers through the fjords of some of the deadliest seas in the world. So, there was no surprise that the ship had been delayed by 3 days and 90 mph winds. In Chile, you learn to just go with the flow as nature is still in charge here, not mankind.